ATTENTION HANDBRAKE BUYERS: We are still facing major supply issues from the supplier in USA for calipers. The best way to secure your spot in the queue is to put your email down to be notified when the item you are waiting for becomes available to order again. This can be seen on the right hand side of the product page, in a red box.

TOYOTA HILUX 4WD REAR DISC BRAKE CONVERSION BRACKETS (Pair) N50, N60, N70, SURF/4-RUNNER

  • Sale
  • Regular price $255.00


[If no stock showing, there is another batch on the way. You can still complete your purchase and usually within a week or two we will have more in stock and we will send them out straight away]

Sick of your severely under-powered factory drum brakes? Sick of them becoming almost non-existent after going through mud or water?

Well look no further!

We bring to you a precision CNC milled, BILLET 7075 T6 Mil-spec Hard Anodised brake caliper adapter bracket for your Toyota! It will never rust, is lightweight yet strong and you don't need to waste time painting them.

These brakes are seriously tough! They are the biggest, cheapest, easiest and the best on the market. You will not be disappointed. Already over 50+ sets sold to a variety of happy customers!

Please note some of the above images show the previous generation which were from Stainless steel. The new design will be the black sets.

[PLEASE NOTE] This rear disc conversion is made to be used in conjunction with our transfer case handbrake (which are also available on our store) These calipers DO NOT have a handbrake function. We spent a lot of time testing many different setups (including the usual L series rear calipers) However, nothing was adequate enough for our liking, so we developed a transfer case handbrake kit for essentially every Hilux - which actually works...

IMPORTANT:

WHEN INSTALLING YOUR DISC ROTORS, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT THE HOLES IN THE ROTOR WHERE THE WHEEL STUDS COME THROUGH, ARE NOT FOULING ON THE SHOULDER OF THE WHEEL STUDS.

We have found that some model Hiluxs' (N70 in particular) have a shoulder on the stud that protrudes into the wheel hub abutment face and if your rotors do not have a sufficient diameter hole, the rotor will NOT sit flush against the hub and will likely lead to the wheel coming loose. 

If this is the case with your setup, simply drill the holes in the rotor out to a suitable size that clears the stud shoulder. 13mm usually does the trick.

Current supported models:

  • Most Hilux 4WD models from 1980's til 2015 (Will fit an N70, can't confirm later models)
  • Surf & 4runner

*REQUIRES A 16" OR BIGGER WHEEL

*HOWEVER; If you run a 15x8 -22 or a 15x10 -44 offset these will clear IF you slightly clearance one edge of the caliper (as seen in image below)

 If you have wheels with even more neg offset, they may bolt straight on with no clearancing

The tight dimension (no clearance) is 190mm from centre of hub to proudest point on caliper. So an inner rim diameter of 385mm is ideal.

IMPORTANT - THINGS YOU NEED TO CHECK:

1: REAR HUB FLANGE BOLT CENTRES - These will fit a vast variety of 4wd Toyota vehicles. If you're unsure, you can firstly check your distance between the 2 studs on your backing plate flange. You need a dimension from centre to centre (or over one stud, into another) of 88mm

If required, I can 3d print or email you a to scale model to print on paper to check.

2: FOR N70 OWNERS  -

It has come to our attention that through the N70 generation, some of the models have a slightly different the rear axle. In doing so, this gives roughly a 10mm wider offset from the wheel hub to the backing plate flange where the bracket mounts – This is due to bigger wheel bearings. Don't stress though, we have an adapter that will be supplied to accommodate this change. BUT we need to know if you require this or not.  

HOW TO CHECK? 

Head around to the inner side of your rear wheel, with a ruler, simply measure from the backing plate to the face that the nut tightens onto. 

If you have roughly 17mm, you need to purchase the "standard" option

If you have roughly 26mm, you need to purchase the "big bearing" option

 

What you get:

  • 2x Billet brake caliper brackets
  • 4x High tensile zinc plated caliper mounting bolts & spring washers
  • 2x Brake banjo bolts (m10x1) & 4x Copper washers

What you also need (LINKS BELOW):

  • Nissan GQ/Y60 Front calipers (single piston) (88-99)       $182.00 (NEW)
  • Nissan GQ/Y60 Front brake pads to suit above caliper   $20.00 (NEW)
  • Nissan GQ/GU/Y60 Rear rotors (315x18mm)                    $74.00 (NEW)
  • Nissan GQ/Y60 Front brake lines (preferably braided)    $53.00 (NEW)
  • Brake pad anti-rattle clips (if using new calipers)           $20-40 (NEW)

                                                                                               TOTAL: ±$350.00

 

MASTER CYLINDER & BOOSTER:

Also depending on what model car you have you will ideally need a 1" bore master cylinder. A 90 series Prado master and booster works well in most applications. BUT PLEASE CHECK THE BOLT CONFIGURATION IN YOUR FIREWALL FOR THE BOOSTER BEFORE ORDERING AS SOME VEHICLES MAY BE 2 OR 4 BOLT CONFIG

I have been told by others that the rear discs work fine with the factory LN130 Master cylinder - though I personally changed mine for an 90 series master and booster anyway, and the brake pedal feel is a lot better than with the factory master and booster. So, i'll leave it up to you, but if in doubt it's definitely worth upgrading and is quite an easy job.

Those with later models like the N70 you probably don't have to do any upgrades, as we've seen great results on the factory booster and master.

PEDAL FEEL:

Depending on your vehicle and configuration, you may find the pedal feels a tiny bit softer and/or takes up a bit lower to the floor. Firstly, this is nothing to be alarmed about, it is merely because of the bigger bore of the piston on the new calipers, being that the effort is reduced.

Some further things to check/adjust could be:

Firstly, you need to check the distance of the adjustable pin in the pushrod of the brake booster (on the master cylinder side) that contacts the piston of the master cylinder (on the brake booster side) If this gap between the two is too far apart, then there will be a bit of dead zone in your pedal. Take some measurements and wind the brake booster pin in or out to suit.

Secondly, you can loosen the lock nut on the threaded clevis that connects to your brake pedal and wind the main shaft into the clevis - which will lessen the dead time when pressing the brake pedal.

NOTE: Be careful not to wind either of the above too far as you will be effectively 'riding the brake' 

 

Links:

Calipers

Brake pads

Rotors

Brake Lines

Anti-Rattle Clips EBAY

Anti-Rattle Clips PARTSOUQ 

There aren't any of these kits stocked in AUS (especially at a decent price), so you can use the above link (which I bought) or alternatively or if link is NLA, search ebay.com for "patrol brake pad fitting kit" - You'll find something

The OE part number is 41080c7126

 

 

📒INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

📹INSTALLATION VIDEO

 

Brake Bias:

So depending on many variables (weight of vehicle, utility or wagon, weight distribution etc) you may need to play with the brake bias or worst case add a proportioning valve into the system. In most cases, you can play with the load sensing proportioning valve (for vehicles that have one) which is at the rear of the vehicle. By lowering the arm down, that gives less pressure. 

DISCLAIMER:

We are solely the supplier of goods. These are intended for 'off-road' use. We take no responsibility for any faults to do with installation of the product or any on-road legalities. Please take your car to a licensed mechanic if you do not know what you're doing or are not comfortable with undertaking this job.

 


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